Electronics, music, electronic music! general geekery


Introducing the Middle-Aged Engineering Grum-P-Lab

If you like the idea of controlling music and other stuff using sensors, then you will probably love the Oplab from Teenage Engineering. It's a really smart, inspiring piece of kit which takes physical input (taps, gestures, pressure, shaking, etc.) and outputs the resulting signals in USB, MIDI, and even control voltage, which you can plug in to your favorite electronic instrument or software. I love the idea of Oplab, but I can't justify spending $300 on it. I figure I can create a microcontroller-based sensor-oriented I/O system with an eye toward modularity, expandability, and ease of use. I'm thinking that once the initial work is complete, it should be something I can just reach for and use with a minimal amount of fiddling around.
For a microcontroller, I chose the Teensy++ over Arduino. It's also AVR-based, it's got more pins, it's native USB/HID/MIDI, it's smaller (fits on a breadboard) and it's cheaper. You can even program Teensy boards using the Arduino software if the C language isn't your thing. You can pick up a Teensy for a measly $16, $24 for the Teensy++. The regular Teensy actually has a few more analog ins than the Teensy++ so that's one thing to consider.
As for the sensors, I put together an assortment of items including a piezo disc for a percussion sensor, a pressure-sensitive resistor pad, an accelerometer, and an ambient light sensor. Those should be a good starting point. To make it modular, I am using standard 3.5mm audio connectors to connect the sensors. For cables I picked up some 3.5mm male to male connector cables (the kind you use to hook your iPod to a stereo). I'll cut those apart, and solder the sensors on, probably with some heat-shrink to make everything tidy. This approach will also transition nicely to an enclosure should that stage be reached. For now, everything takes place on a breadboard, which the Teensy++ plugs directly into. Since Teensy supports USB, you don't need to fuss with a power supply (of course it can run on batteries if needed).

What a nice collection of items! If only I had some sort of special container to store it all in, like maybe a tray or something.
In terms of software, my first choice is MaxMSP and the Maxuino library. Maxuino requires the Firmata library to work. I wrote about this a while back: Interfacing MaxMSP and Arduino. In a nutshell, you load Firmata onto your Teensy (or other Arduino-compatible). Maxuino communicates using the OSC protocol, and facilitates I/O from within MaxMSP. My initial step is to make sure Teensy works by following the instructions here. I got a blink, so far so good!!! Next step: get a sensor and send a signal into MaxMSP.


Monome 128 Enclosure Kit

At long last, here are some detailed photos of the Monome 128 enclosure kit. The chassis is a formed piece of sheet metal, with mounting holes that will fit either Arduino or Monome mk logic board:

The end caps are available in walnut or clear polycarbonate. They fit neatly on either end, as shown here:

Six screws hold everything together. They come up through the bottom of the chassis, through the end-caps, and attach to the faceplate itself.

These enclosures are an attractive, durable housing for your Monome!

The kit includes the chassis, end-caps, and all necessary assembly hardware. The faceplate, also shown here, is sold separately.

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Monome Enclosure Kits: Coming Soon!

Today I received the first prototype enclosure kits, and they are quite awesome! The instrument feels quite solid. Here is a finished black anodized kit that contains a monome mk with some pretty blue LEDs.

Our first monome enclosure kit prototype!

Once we nail down the pricing we are going to do our first limited edition run. We're doing them in editions to keep manufacturing costs down (batch runs make sheet metal forming and anodizing much cheaper). In addition this will enable us to fulfill orders more rapidly.

Stay tuned for more details!!


M-Audio Axiom 61 Mainboard Replacement

UPDATE: As it becomes more difficult to locate replacement parts for the keyboard, some may despair. But don't give up hope! I have stumbled across a brilliant solution (by a really smart dude). There may be a way to fix your mainboard, but it is rather technical and involves a bit of soldering and knowledge of how to flash an ARM 7 chip: It's a long thread, but I think it contains enough info to get the job done. If anyone tries this, please drop a note.

A couple of years ago I bought myself an M-Audio Axiom 61 MIDI controller keyboard (first gen). It's a pretty nice little unit, and it provided me with some good usage until one day it decided to just plain not work anymore. I turned on the unit and all I got was a blank blue screen. A few forum searches later, I found some postings where other folks have had similar problems. The possibility of replacing the mainboard was mentioned more than once, and a particularly detailed posting from an Avid support tech revealed that the first generation had issues with the microcontroller failing due to an unspecified grounding issue. So I opened a ticket with Avid. Several fruitless exchanges later, I finally got the number for the Avid Spare Parts Department: (626) 610-2529, Monday–Friday, 9am – 5pm Pacific time. I ordered a new mainboard, and it cost about $47 with shipping. That's a heckuva lot cheaper than buying a new keyboard.

The old card was v04, the new one is listed as v06. Interestingly, on the old board the power regulator did not have a heat sink, but the new one does. My guess is that this is more prudence on the part of the engineers, since those little suckers can get pretty hot. I'm sure they made many other improvements as well, but I'm just banking on having it actually work. I prefer functional equipment.

I set up my work area with a couple of books upon which to rest the ends of the keyboard, to avoid stress on the panel elements. On my poor keyboard a few slider heads got snapped off while it was being stored in the closet, so I took this step to prevent further damage. I have some cups to collect various sizes of screws, masking tape and a sharpie to label the cable leads, and a couple of screwdrivers.

Before starting I took a digital snapshot of the mainboard, numbering each terminal to avoid confusion. I then labeled each cable with the corresponding number from the picture. I flipped the keyboard over, resting the ends on top of the books to keep the knobs and sliders from resting on the table. Man there are a lot of screws! There are a dozen medium-sized screws right down the middle, a dozen smaller ones in wells along the edges, and 10 deep wells on the back of the case. All of the screws need to come out in order to take the case apart (which you probably could have guessed but I mention it here anyway).

Once all of the screws were loose I grasped the unit firmly on each ends and inverted it face-up, employing gravity to get the screws out. A brand new nice guitar pick fell out too, because I'm special like that. I did this in a safe place so as to lose no screws. It's helpful to note which screws came from which holes, as there are four types in use. I flipped the board back over and set it face up on the worktable with the rear of the unit facing me. The top and bottom are connected by a bunch of ribbon cables which are taped. Also, the front fascia of the top lid (just beneath the front of the keys) is really thin and easy to break. I gently removed the tape and flipped the upper case away from the lower case, like opening a book. Note that the keys are part of a separate assembly, and can be shifted out of position. I left the keys sitting in the bottom half of the case and tried not to disturb them. Ebony and ivory should remain together in perfect harmony. The arrow in the next photo points to the mainboard.

Now it's time to label the cables according to the numbered photo of the mainboard. Yes, I know, all but three of them are different sizes. However, I prefer to err on the side of caution. Each terminal has a small slot to the side, which corresponds to a small "tab" on each side. I had to examine the replacement mainboard to get a better idea of how these fit. I used a small screwdriver to release the tabs on them. Note here that it is important to use caution and never force anything. Once the cables were disconnected, I unscrewed the old board, noting the ground wires on each corner (these will need to be reattached when mounting the new board). I had to slide the board back a bit, then it was easy to remove. Lastly, I removed the board's own ground wire from the chassis. Time to put in the new board.

When mounting the replacement board, I first set it in and slid the non-connector end into the case on the key side, as shown below. The connectors now need to be aligned into their mounting holes.

I found that it was easiest to angle the board up a little so that the tops of the connector jacks just fit under the tops of the mounting holes (it's a snug fit). I then slid the board forward a bit, and gently nudged it until all of the screw holes lined up. Note that the tops of the MIDI I/O ports will end up resting against the inside of the mounting area, they don't go under. The USB port and AC jack need a little cajoling however. When the screw holes line up it snapped into place and I could see that all of the holes were properly lined up.

I screwed in the replacement board, attaching the ground wires on the corners (the two ground holes have a little circle of copper around them). There is a ground wire that is attached to the replacement board. Mine was too short to reach the original attachment point, so I attached it to part of the metal frame that was closer. I used the diagram I made earlier to reconnect the ribbon cables to the terminals, double checking my work before closing the case, taking care that no cables got pinched. Then I flipped it back over and put all those screws back in. The big round-head phillips go into the 12 recessed holes on the back. The small screws with coarse theads fasten the front fascia (the thin part underneath the front of the keys). The small fine-threaded screws go into the recessed edge holes. The slightly longer coarse-threaded screws go into the deeply recessed holes on the back. The 1/2" lag bolts go into the titanium mounting bosses on either side. Just wanted to make sure you're paying attention.

Testing time!!! A number of Avid forum posters remarked that the Axiom 61 performs at its best when it has the maximum amount of USB power available at the port. If you think all USB ports supply the same quality of power, think again. Self-powered hubs (the kind that come with their own wall wart) are generally your best bet. I am going with the IOGear 7-port that is on my desk right now. And I am seeing the blue screen of LIFE this time! After using my Akai MPK25 continuously for several weeks, this feels so lush! The keys are pretty decent quality, and they have aftertouch too. I really like this keyboard and I'm so glad it's back on my desk! Now about those broken sliders. Hey, at least I have the Avid Spare Parts Department phone number. Then again there is always super glue.

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Loomis Monome 256: Art Meets Sound

Here is a really cool build of a Monome 256 kit by Loomis. The housing features one of our 256 polycarbonate faceplates enclosed by a re-purposed picture frame. Custom art on the sides was done by Ephraim Peniston ( The faceplate was roughed with sandpaper, and then had several coats of RustOleum applied, followed by a couple of coats of matte white. All in all quite a solid, attractive and functional piece!

Click for a larger view.

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